6 ISSUES WITH LONG SKINCARE ROUTINE – How Many Steps Should Your Skincare Routine Have?

From the 10–step Korean skincare routine to TikTok videos of what seems like an eternity in front of a bathroom mirror, how much is too much when it comes to elaborate skincare routine? It seems as though every day a new product type hits the already crowded beauty market, each promising to be the next best thing. If we just added that one to our skincare, we might finally achieve that perfect complexion, subtle glow, glass skin, while also banishing all spots, acne, and wrinkles forever. But as it turns out, an elaborate skincare routine can be unnecessarily heavy on both your wallet and your skin.

A few years ago, I remember reading an article in Vogue Italy titled: "This 38 minute–long skincare routine is just what you need." Um… no, but thanks for the laugh! Who has the time to apply 12 products every morning, then wait for a few minutes between each for them to absorb? Sure, once in a while, this might be a great idea for an indulgent, relaxing spa day. But every day? I don’t know about you, but I'd rather sleep in, make out with my husband, or do a 15 minute yoga session to start my day right, instead of literally watching the moisturizer dry.

More importantly, is any of this actually necessary and is it doing your skin any favors? Science, dermatologists (and dare I say common sense) all say no. In fact, an overcomplicated skincare routine can cause problems and some unexpected side effects.

In today's beauty market, consumers are more aware and pay more attention to the ingredients in their products. They demand products that are safe for them, but also good for the environment. Consumers are becoming skincare experts, more knowledgeable about skincare actives, concentrations, and effects. So they are searching for honest brands whose products deliver on marketing promises. If you are one of these consumers seeking a sustainable, non–irritating, safe, and effective skincare, here is the best advice on how to achieve that: simplify your skincare routine. Yes, I said the unthinkable. But I promise this will make a lot of sense by the time you're done reading this article.

So here are the six issues with skincare routines that have too many steps.

Higher Chance of Skin Irritation

Using a large number of different products and ingredients, some of which overlap in function, can lead to skin irritation, manifested as red, itchy, or flaky skin. If you unintentionally double up on the same active or use several products, each containing a different potent active, the potential for irritated skin obviously gets much higher than if you use only one of these products. Increased irritation is a sign that the skin barrier is disrupted, which is the opposite of what we're trying to achieve.

Not doubling up on the same actives sounds like common sense. But irritation risk can increase even when combining too many ingredients that are not particularly irritating on their own. This is especially important for those with sensitive skin, prone to eczema or contact dermatitis. I personally experienced this when I added a humectant serum as an extra step to my morning routine. Instead of giving me the promised plump and hydrated skin, I ended up with dry, red patches that miraculously disappeared when I paired down my skin routine.

If irritation does occur, it will also be more difficult to determine the cause because there are too many products and too many variables. In this case, you would ideally need to stop using all of the products and reintroduce them one at a time. This, of course, can take forever or lead to frustration and skin discomfort.

Safety

In recent years there has been a lot of talk about nontoxic and clean beauty. More consumers than ever are concerned about the safety of the ingredients they are putting on their skin. Each cosmetic raw material has a recommended maximum safe level of use depending on the sight of application. This ensures that products are safe when used as directed. However, if you combine same ingredient in multiple products you will have additive exposure. And in some cases, the total level of such an ingredient will not be safe anymore, even though each product by itself is safe. Cosmetic chemists formulate and test each product to function and be safe on its own, but they can't guarantee you that your mixture of 10 different products is also safe and will perform as tested. And for consumers, there is no way to know all this in order to determine if combined level from multiple products is above safe limits. The simple solution here is to decrease cumulative exposure by using less products.

Does It Even Work?

Some skincare ingredients and actives just don’t mesh well and some will loose part of their potency in the presence of certain other ingredients. For example, we all know that retinol should not be used with vitamin C or AHA / BHA acids.

And then there is the question of comedogenicity and how happy your pores will be long–term when you pile all these products on top of each other. Nobody can really tell, because nobody planned for or tested that many products used together at the same time.

Sustainability

Consumers today are increasingly seeking out sustainable beauty brands. They want to know that the products they use are at least not harmful to, and ideally, are helping the environment. Some of the most frequently asked questions revolve around recyclable and sustainable packaging, a company's water and carbon footprint, manufacturing practices and waste management, and even the effect of natural ingredients on ecosystem, such as deforestation, water usage for growing the plant, waste generated during processing, etc.

But no matter how much effort a company puts into sustainable packaging, responsible manufacturing, and ingredient sourcing, the biggest impact on sustainability comes down to: produce less and use less.

This might sound odd because when it comes to beauty we are taught that the more is always, well, more. But, the math here is simple: the more products you buy, the more packaging waste, water, energy, and carbon footprint. The main principle of sustainability: Reduce. Reuse. Recycle. – has "reduce" as the first step for a reason.

Of course, this often does work in favor on brands' bottom line, which is why the overly complex skincare routines started in the first place. But I think there is a great way for brands to win, while respecting the reduce principle. More on that below.

Makeup Woes

If you often apply makeup you know that combining certain skincare products can cause sticky face or pilling that doesn’t allow for a smooth and even foundation application. This happens when piling a bunch of products of different viscosities and textures on top of each other or not waiting long enough for a product to absorb and dry before putting on the next one (ahem… we’re all guilty of this when we're in a rush). It can also happen if you use too much of any product. So the longer your routine is, the more likely this is to happen. It is pretty impossible to predict which product combo will cause this, even if you are a cosmetic chemist and you know your stuff. It’s basically trial and error kind of thing. But obviously, the more products you put on the higher the risk, and when it does happen you have no choice but to wash your face and start all over again. Annoying...

Sexist Skincare

Another issue I have with brands promoting such complex skincare routines is that it is inherently sexist. Can skincare really be sexist? Yes! With brands intentionally targeting women with these types of ads and narrative, they are sending a message that we need a dozen skincare products before we can even think to show our face in the world. And that is not a self–love kind of message that many beauty ads pretend to be selling. These unrealistic routines also suck the time and absurd amounts of money out of us. And for what? To create an insecurity in women, that will create a profit for them. No, thank you.

And just because I am a scientist, here are some studies and stats highlight the problematic nature of sexist marketing in the beauty industry, to illustrate the point:

• A 2018 study by Mintel revealed that 40% of women feel pressured to buy skincare products to meet societal beauty standards.

• According to Statista, the global skincare market was valued at approximately $145 billion in 2021, with women making up majority of the consumer base. This spending often reflects the pressure created by marketing narratives.

• A survey conducted by Dove showed that 73% of women believe that the beauty ads set an unrealistic standard of beauty, which can lead to feelings of inadequacy and increased spending on products.

So Now What...

Should you toss all your 68 cosmetic products from your vanity, drawers, and all your makeup bags? Should companies sacrifice their profits by selling fewer products in their lines? Sounds liberating to my dreams of decluttering. But it's probably unlikely to happen irl. Luckily, there is a smarter solution: creating paired–down routines and product lines by embracing all–in–one skincare solutions that combine multiple benefits into fewer, more effective products.

As a consumer, do you really need a dozen different products to achieve healthy skin? The answer is: no. By opting for brands that prioritize innovation, advanced cosmetic science, and efficacy, you get to enjoy a curated selection of products that deliver results without overwhelming your shelves, your wallet, and your skin.

For me, embracing a smart skincare routine means always choosing quality over quantity. Look for brands that offer multifunctional products, like a moisturizer that also provides sun protection, a face oil with proven, oil–soluble, hero actives. By supporting brands that create smart solutions, instead of lazy chemistry, you can simplify your skincare regimen and achieve glowing, healthy skin. It’s time to invest in products that work harder for you, and respect you and your skin, as well as your time and money.